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TastesNovember 19, 2011 by Greg May

Freestone Vineyards: Top-Notch Chardonnay and Pinot

The Sonoma Coast puts out some amazing wines. Best described through the climate and nature- a bit stormy, brisk, full of character, mood- we've tried several varietals from this area and generally find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs to be excellent examples of the terroir. And whether it's the holidays themselves, the family, or simply the colder chills, the staff were fans of all four of today's finds.

We'll start with the two whites. The Freestone 2009 Chardonnay and Fogdog Chardonnay from that same year offer distinctively different profiles. The former is the more expensive of the two, at $55 versus $35, and is a tighter, more concentrated wine with a focus on crispness, citrus, floral, and sweet honey. The Freestone was tangy without being tannic or bitter, and the 15 months in French oak left a deeper finish that was even better when made a littler warmer. Unlike some chards, this one doesn't have that buttery flavor that is divisive (we generally dislike it). And thanks to the distinct but complex flavors, this one was a clear winner even amongst those who don't normally like this varietal and favor sweeter whites.

The Fogdog also benefited from the natural fermentation, though spent a little less time in oak barrels, and has a nuttier character reminiscent of roasted almonds. The nose is lemon meringue and the finish tilts towards pear, and the color is bright and lively. There's a little green here that makes this one pair well with cheeses and cheese sauces, and we really liked sipping this one alongside some fresh fruit. It didn't knock our socks off, but was a nice, balanced Chardonnay.

Red lovers aren't left out though! This pair has the same pricing as the whites- $55 for the Freestone 2008 Pinot Noir and $35 for the Fogdog 2009. In this case, though, neither one was an absolute favorite. The Fogdog runs wild with a smokier, spicier take, offering hints of cocoa and a lovely ruby color and smooth texture that was immediately inviting. Resolving into a sort of figgy black tea, the nose was slightly metallic, and expressed itself better with a bit of time ripening. The finish is a bit rough around the edges- tannins that aren't quite mellowed out yet- but we like the bold, imperious feel of this one and it should only improve with a bit of time.

The Freestone was much jammier, fresher, tasting of redder berries and a little more acid than tannin. It zings a bit, and finishes more roundly and smoothly, though isn't quite as memorable. This tastes and feels like a slightly richer wine, and should pair well with lamb. This is our late night, rainy evening wine of choice, in front of a fire. Happy holidays!

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